Lessons From 'Nam

Lesson One: Don't bother getting custom shoes made unless they are very simple (i.e. boots: a bad idea). Either they won't look anything like what you thought they would, or they are poorly made because the shoemakers insist they can create something for you and everybody else in less than 24 hours. The glue was still wet on the boots I received.

Lesson Two: Don't take a motorbike anywhere unless you are able to give the location in Vietnamese. This morning Carmen and I tried to take motorbikes to the post office to mail our boots and clothes back home (because we are wimps who can't carry anything). We showed them where to go on the map, they nodded like they knew, and we negotiated 15,000 dong. Well... first they stopped at the tailor. We're like, "no, the post office." Carmen showed them the map again, and we got on our way. Next, they stopped at a restaurant. "No," we said, "the POST OFFICE." The third time, they stopped in the middle of a quiet street. Carmen got out her phrase book, found the Vietnamese word for "post," and we thought we were good. But no, this time we were dropped off at a street corner. So we paid them and started walking. One of the drivers followed us a block or so later and said he would take us the rest of the way for another 5,000 dong. These people have no shame.

Lesson Three: Be prepared to wait. Whether it's your check at the restaurant or the people at the post office, everything moves slower here. Getting things mailed at the post office took an hour. And we didn't even have anyone in front of us.

Lesson Four: Dirt is your friend. So is sweat. So is the oil from the food that inevitably finds its way over every single pair of pants you brought with you into the country. Embrace them, love them, because they are not going away.


I know it sounds like complaining, but Carmen and I have had a rough couple of days. It just seems like everything has gone wrong, from our crappy boots, to me losing a toenail on the uneven sidewalk, to Carmen stubbing her toe on the bathroom floor, to Carmen hating her pants from the tailor, to having to wait 45 minutes to an hour for our boots... etc. I really do love it in Hoi An, it's very beautiful, but everyone who lives here knows that the tourists come to spend money, and they are forever hassling you to buy, buy, buy.

The one awesome thing about yesterday was the motorbike ride Tu organized for us. About eight of us got on motorbikes (with drivers) who took us all over Hoi An - through the back streets where the people actually live, along the river, through woods, to the beach (China Beach), and back. We spent around 2-2.5 hours doing that, and it's probably my favorite memory from this town.

We're taking a day train this afternoon to Nha Trang. One of the other tour groups is supposed to be in our carriage, so I think we're going to have a pretty rowdy time.

Thanks to everyone who's been writing comments in. All blogs are blocked from the Vietnamese internet, so I can't see this blog or post replies to the comments. Anyway, I just wanted to let you know that I am receiving them and I love hearing from everyone.